July 13, 2008
BLOG by Julie Marek
On the ten hour trip from Varna to Blagoevgrad, down bumpy back roads of Bulgaria which we termed the Bulgarian back massage, we had ample time to talk and get to know each other better. We would like take this opportunity to introduce ourselves to you--take a look at these profiles:
Kristen Holtschlag
I am a high school English teacher. My first three years as a teacher were spent at an alternative high school in Northeast Washington, DC. After the trip, I will be moving to Chicago to start a new chapter in my life and working with 9th and 11th graders at Oak Park/River Forest High School.
Since a 500-page epic poem will be my students’ first introduction to high school and me, I am excited to discover that my Bulgarian experience has much to offer in terms of enriching this ancient and important text- The Odyssey!
On a personal level, I have also been very touched by the spirit and optimism with which the Bulgarians we have met face their period of transition.
Pamela Galbraith
I am the outreach coordinator for the Center for Advanced Study of International Development (CASID) at Michigan State University where I am also a PhD candidate in the Department of Anthropology. I studied the gender and the development of civil society in Bulgaria in 2001 with the support of Fulbright- IIE, and will join the Anthropology department of Grand Valley State University as visiting faculty this fall.
Kristin Walden Grattan
Kristin is Nation Board Certified Teacher – Literacy 2005 and currently teaching at risk children in grades K-5 in Mason, Michigan. She received a BA in French from Albion College; MA in literacy from Michigan State University.
Kristin is very interested in continuing her study of the Bulgarian language and the Cyrillic Language when she returns to the United States.
Karen Lee
I teach 9th grade Early World History and 12th grade AP US Government at Maya Angelou Public Charter School (MAPCS). The school is located in Northeast Washington DC and serves students who have not been successful in traditional schools. I have a Masters of Education in Curriculum and Instruction and have a desire to help make urban curriculum equitable.
I wanted to come to Bulgaria to experience and learn a region of the world that I had never seen before. I am very interested in the history of this region because it is directly linked to the work I do in the classroom. I also wanted to be able to share the world with my students and encourage them to see new places and explore the world for themselves. My hope is that students will begin to look and study the world around them with a new set of eyes and fresh perspective.
Le Tran
Le Tran has taught art at East Kentwood High School for six years. She is also an adjunct professor at Kendal College of Art and Design. Ms. Tran is and active member of the National Art Education Association and she has been invited to participate in a delegation to travel to Vietnam as a part of the People to People Initiatives. This is Le’s second Fulbright Hays GPA. She enjoys reading, traveling and painting.
Andrea Hartland
I am Andrea Hartland and I live in Lansing, Michigan. I teach third graders at Bath Elementary in Bath, Michigan. I am a Spartan at heart, having earned both a BA in Elementary Education and a MA in Curriculum and Teaching from Michigan State University. One of my strongest aspirations is to model a heightened level of global awareness and tolerance of diversity to my students. This trip to Bulgaria allows me to bring a cultural experience to children who are not familiar with this beautiful and fascinating country. From swimming in the Black Sea to playing traditional Bulgarian instruments with people in the mountain villages. It has been a journey filled with endless memories that I will share with my students for years to come.
Ann Marie Borders
Ann Marie's professional work in Michigan includes:
National Board Certified Teacher
MEA International Understanding Commission Chair
Active member of the University Musical Society Chorus (and other local music organizations)
I am married to my best friend James Borders with two lovely adult children Jacqueline and Julia. I teach 1st grade at Logan School in Ann Arbor, Michigan. I’d like to teach Bulgarian culture to my students using the district outcomes and hands on activities. I am moved by the sheer beauty of the country. Rolling hills, fields of sunflowers, snow covered mountains, interspersed with cliff clinging villages, majestic churches and shopping complexes. It is an amazingly welcoming country. I’m very happy to be here with a wonderful, energetic and insightful group of people.
Anne W. Dale Blair
Anne teaches elementary art in Grandville Public Schools. She has 5 elementary schools and has about 1000 students, 1st through 6th grade. Her BA was from Purdue University (West Lafayette, IN) in Art Education/Interior Design. She also has a MA in Print Making from Purdue and Elementary Endorsement from Western Michigan University.
Professionally, Anne is active in her professional organizations and is Co-Chair of the Michigan Art Education Association 2008 conference being held in Grand Rapids, October 9-12th, 2008.
Print making is Anne’s favorite art media with relief woodcuts and etchings. She is also currently in a quilt phase, making queen size quilts and experimenting with lots of colors.
Heather Bartlett
Heather teaches middle school in Romeo, Michigan for the past ten years. She teaches Social Studies, History, and Math. She received her Undergraduate Degree from Central Michigan University with majors in Math and Social Studies. She also earned her Master Degree in American History from Oakland University.
Pat Goodman
Pat is currently a counselor for 8th and 9th graders at Coloma Junior High. Pat is a talented musician and a member of the Kalamazoo and Southwest Michigan Symphony Orchestra and the OPUS IV and Renaissance String Quartets.
Pat is a mother of three children, Andrew who is a Medical Resident with the University of Pennsylvania, Nicholas who is in International Studies at Eastern Kentucky University, and Carolyn who is a graduate of the University of Michigan in Vocal Performance an upcoming star who is moving to NYC and working for a break.
Margaret Holtschlag
Margaret’s professional work in Michigan includes:
LATTICE –Linking All Types of Teachers to International Cross-Cultural Education, Director of the Big Lesson programs (History, Zoo, Nature, Science, Culture programs), Adjunct Instructor, College of Education, Michigan State University, Michigan Teacher of the Year 2000 & National Teacher of the Year Finalist 2000.
Margaret currently lives in Okemos, Michigan with her family members including Dave her husband and her children Joe, Sarah, and Kristen.
I am inspired by the creativity of our group of Fulbright teachers. Each are developing curriculum projects to teach about Bulgaria to their students in MI, NV, DC, and IL. Teachers are sharing their experiences with each other, including integrated curriculum, differentiation, history, literature, art, music, geography, and literacy. We are all sharing ideas and learning from each other. I am proud to be part of this outstanding group of educators.
Julie Marek
I currently teach 8th grade World Geography at Brinley Middle School in Las Vegas, Nevada. I have been teaching in Vegas for the past 8 years but my roots are in Michigan where I started teaching at Fowlerville High School. I have my Bachelors in Education from Central Michigan University and a Masters in Geography from the University of Nevada, Las Vegas (UNLV). I was fortunate to finish my Masters in Sydney, Australia studying and teaching there for 6 months. Last summer I participated in a Semester at Sea program spending 3 months traveling and studying culture and geography through out Latin America (Mexico to Chile). I am currently active with the Geographic Alliance of Nevada (GAIN) as a teacher consultant presenting lessons at GeoFest 2008.
I believe that we are all life long learners of the world around us. It is wonderful experiences like this Fulbright to Bulgaria that helps us to build connections and understanding of other regions of the world. I know that while there are only 16 of us fellow teachers on this trip the experiences, knowledge, and wonderful ideals of tolerance will be felt by thousands of students in the years to come.
Carol Mohrlock
C aring educator of sixth grade geography and seventh grade ancient civilization
Ann Arbor, Michigan native
Realist in terms of thoughts and ideas
Open minded individual
Love of people, cultures and life
Masters degree is held from Eastern MI University and one from University of Michigan
Other grades I have taught are:1, 4, 5, elem. & high school special ed, & college level
Hope College is where I received my Bachelors of Arts degree in 1980
Religion, faith and a strong foundation in spirituality is part of who I am
Learning is a passion of mine. I believe I will be a life long learner
One brother named Ken is my only sibling
Comfortable, content, curious, creative are some of the “c” words which describe me
Keep on traveling is a goal and desire of mine
And as a final note with the extra time on the bus we have a special treat of Lyrics by Larry. This is best if done to the tune of On The Road Again by Willie Nelson… Go on give it a try!
LYRICS BY LARRY.. ON THE BUS AGAIN!
Chorus
On the bus again
Just can’t wait to get on the bus again
The life I love is seeing Bulgaria with my friends
And I can’t wait to get on the bus again
On the bus again
Leaving Varna that I’ve never been
Buying things that I may never see again,
And I can’t wait to get on the bus again
Verse 1
As we leave at seven O three
Carol says it’s icon, coffee, or tea
And Varna sunflowers that we love the best
Shows us their face as George speeds to the west
And I can’t wait to get on the bus again
Verse 2
On the bus again
Like a band of gypsies we go to the fortress Tsarevets
We’re the best of friends
It was where the Second Bulgarian Kingdom end was met.
And I can’t wait to get on the bus again
Verse 3
On the bus again
Traveling with friends I love and trust
Speeding down a bumpy road
And hoping my bladder will not bust
And I can’t wait to get on the bus again
Verse 4
On the bus again
Like a band of gypsies we do the week’s evaluation
We’re the best of friends
And as travelers what has been our own education
And I can’t wait to get on the bus again.
Verse 5
On the bus again
Hoping my deodorant doesn’t end
For ten hours we are the best of friends
And I just can’t wait to get off the bus again.
And I just can’t wait to get off the bus again.
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Kristen Holtschlag--Saturday, July 12
Today we had a free day in which to explore the fair city of Varna. Usually, when teachers need a day off, we give our kidlets a test. In that spirit, here is a short quiz to test your knowledge of the group, our adventures, and the Baltic Peninsula.
Good luck!!presented to you by Kristen Holtschlag
1. Which of the following is NOT an explanation for the naming of the Black Sea?
a. The danger it posed in crossing it during the ancient times.
b. The number of oil spills that have happened in this body of water.
c. Hydrogen sulfide located approximately 200 meters below the surface giving the water a black appearance.
d. The color black was associated with north on the compass; the sea used to be called the North Sea, and now it is the Black Sea.
2. How many times is Julie allowed to utter the word "nachos" in Karen's presence?
a. 0
b. 2
c. 3
d. 5
3. What unusual thing did NOT take place during tonight's performance at the summer concert series?
a. The exhausted violist rested his elbow on his knee during the entire third movement of the Bhrams.
b. The first violinist dropped his bow during his solo in the Shostakovich. c. A high string on the Steinway broke.
d. The first violinist's music stand broke in half.
4. What was today's exchange rate for the Bulgarian lev? $1 = ?
a. 1.30
b. 1.23
c. 1.18
d. 1.21
5. How do you say, "Coffee with milk, please" in Bulgarian?
a. Кафе с мляко, моля
b. Вие сте goofy и вие знаете, че
c. Той е на картофено тиган, Otis
d. Знаете ли за google превеждате?
6. At Varna Beach, you can rent a chair for 3 lv. An umbrella to sit under costs 2 lv. A pad for a chair costs 1 lv. If you want to rent two chairs, one umbrella, and two pads to go on the chairs, how much should you pay?
a. 6 lv.
b. 10 lv.
c. 15 lv.
d. 12 lv.
7. Which member of the group holds the record for owning the sunblock with the highest SPF?
a. Shirley
b. Andrea
c. Margaret
d. Stephanie
8. How many days do we have left of our Bulgarian adventure?
a. 11
b. 12
c. 9
d. 6
9. According to our hotel, which of the following is considered a breakfast food?
a. American cheese
b. Shrink-wrapped hot dogs
c. Pickles
d. Waffles
10. What can be difficult when navigating the city of Varna?
a. Streets have no street signs.
b. Streets change names when they cross over intersections (sometimes).
c. Maps are written in cyrillic.
d. All of the above.
Correct Answers:
1.) b; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Black_Sea
2.) c; Julie can't find nachos. It's a big problem for us. On a number of levels.
3.) a; Wild times at the symphony tonight. For those of you on Rhapsody, check out these amazing pieces we heard tonight - Bhrams: Trio for violin, horn, & piano; Op. 40 Schubert: Piano Sonata, Wanderer Fantasy, D. 760 Shostakovich: Quintet in 6 minor, Op. 57
4.) b; Can't complain...
5.) a; http://translate.google.com/translate How cool is this page!?
6.) trick question! If you are an American tourist, you will be asked to pay 15 lv. Don't fall for the trap! It should only be 10 lv.
7.) d; Stephanie comes in first with a whopping SPF 85. Margaret gets an honorable mention for her equally excessive SPF 70.
8.) This depends on the day you are reading this blog. If you read it tonight, July 12, we will have 11 days left. CraZY!
9.) b; YUM! Wrap me up one and let me take it home!!! ;)
10.) d; And we are crossing our fingers to return to Blagoevgrad with 16 people on the bus!
Good luck!!presented to you by Kristen Holtschlag
1. Which of the following is NOT an explanation for the naming of the Black Sea?
a. The danger it posed in crossing it during the ancient times.
b. The number of oil spills that have happened in this body of water.
c. Hydrogen sulfide located approximately 200 meters below the surface giving the water a black appearance.
d. The color black was associated with north on the compass; the sea used to be called the North Sea, and now it is the Black Sea.
2. How many times is Julie allowed to utter the word "nachos" in Karen's presence?
a. 0
b. 2
c. 3
d. 5
3. What unusual thing did NOT take place during tonight's performance at the summer concert series?
a. The exhausted violist rested his elbow on his knee during the entire third movement of the Bhrams.
b. The first violinist dropped his bow during his solo in the Shostakovich. c. A high string on the Steinway broke.
d. The first violinist's music stand broke in half.
4. What was today's exchange rate for the Bulgarian lev? $1 = ?
a. 1.30
b. 1.23
c. 1.18
d. 1.21
5. How do you say, "Coffee with milk, please" in Bulgarian?
a. Кафе с мляко, моля
b. Вие сте goofy и вие знаете, че
c. Той е на картофено тиган, Otis
d. Знаете ли за google превеждате?
6. At Varna Beach, you can rent a chair for 3 lv. An umbrella to sit under costs 2 lv. A pad for a chair costs 1 lv. If you want to rent two chairs, one umbrella, and two pads to go on the chairs, how much should you pay?
a. 6 lv.
b. 10 lv.
c. 15 lv.
d. 12 lv.
7. Which member of the group holds the record for owning the sunblock with the highest SPF?
a. Shirley
b. Andrea
c. Margaret
d. Stephanie
8. How many days do we have left of our Bulgarian adventure?
a. 11
b. 12
c. 9
d. 6
9. According to our hotel, which of the following is considered a breakfast food?
a. American cheese
b. Shrink-wrapped hot dogs
c. Pickles
d. Waffles
10. What can be difficult when navigating the city of Varna?
a. Streets have no street signs.
b. Streets change names when they cross over intersections (sometimes).
c. Maps are written in cyrillic.
d. All of the above.
Correct Answers:
1.) b; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Black_Sea
2.) c; Julie can't find nachos. It's a big problem for us. On a number of levels.
3.) a; Wild times at the symphony tonight. For those of you on Rhapsody, check out these amazing pieces we heard tonight - Bhrams: Trio for violin, horn, & piano; Op. 40 Schubert: Piano Sonata, Wanderer Fantasy, D. 760 Shostakovich: Quintet in 6 minor, Op. 57
4.) b; Can't complain...
5.) a; http://translate.google.com/translate How cool is this page!?
6.) trick question! If you are an American tourist, you will be asked to pay 15 lv. Don't fall for the trap! It should only be 10 lv.
7.) d; Stephanie comes in first with a whopping SPF 85. Margaret gets an honorable mention for her equally excessive SPF 70.
8.) This depends on the day you are reading this blog. If you read it tonight, July 12, we will have 11 days left. CraZY!
9.) b; YUM! Wrap me up one and let me take it home!!! ;)
10.) d; And we are crossing our fingers to return to Blagoevgrad with 16 people on the bus!
Kristin Grattan--Friday, July 11
Kristin Walden Grattan Varna, Bulgaria July 11, 2008
We quickly found that maps are useless in the city of Varna, since there are very few street signs. Our Intrepid Leader Pamela bravely led us through tunnels and winding streets to find several famous sites in Varna. The Church of the Assumption is beautiful. The Archaeological Museum is filled with room after room of artifacts including Roman glass, pottery, tombstones, sculptures and jewelry.
We even saw several pieces of the Thracian gold which is the oldest worked gold ever found in the world. Archeologists estimate that this gold predated the Egyptian and Mesopotamian civilizations and demonstrated the existence of an important civilization in Varna.
Before we scattered around Varna in small groups to enjoy the next day and a half of free time, we visited an ancient Roman Spa that is one of the largest of its kind in Europe.
Sixteen “Fulbrighters” (apologies to Pamela) thoroughly enjoyed exploring Varna. It was great to gather in the lobby of the Hotel Dionis each evening and share the stories of our adventures and compile lists….
Top Ten Reasons to visit Bulgaria (Apologies to David Letterman):
10. A left to right head shake means yes, and up and down nod means no
9. Beer is cheaper than water
8. Picture perfect landscapes
7. The uneven cobblestone streets is better than the Stairmaster in the gym
6. Horse carts share roads with SUV’s
5. Tomatoes, cucumbers and cheese are yummy
4. Oil and vinegar on every table
3. You can park your car anywhere- even on the sidewalk
2. Everyone will ask you, “Why Bulgaria?”
1. You can give impromptu geography lessons to all who ask “Where is Bulgaria?”
Ten Reasons to visit Varna:
10. Corn stands, people, and the Laser show along Ploshtad Nezavisimost
9. Turkish Restaurant- Orient Salad
8. Costa Coffee- finally a big cup of coffee!
7. The lace ladies in Primorski Park
6. Free day!
5. The Black Sea
4. Clothing is optional at the beach, hats are not!
3. Life drawing at the beach.
2. Navigating Varna by the sun and the moon, since street signs are optional
1. It’s Bulgaria, baby!
Le Tran--Thursday, July 10
We are on the road again!
This time we are traveling east, from Blagoevgrad to Varna. That’s like Los Angeles to New York except it’s a shorter distance across Bulgaria. We began our cross-country journey at 7:00 am sharp with every member of the group on the bus. We were immediately rewarded with a stop at “Viva” gas station for coffee. Our bus driver, Georgi was the hero of the day for his quick maneuver to the nearest coffee pot. There’s nothing worse than driving a bus full of teachers who wants to know when they will get their coffee.
Here’s a list of things and activities that caught our attention on the roads across Bulgaria:
Stephanie Knapp: This country has more organized agriculture than I have ever seen; there are machinery and substantial sized fields planted with crops. Then I saw a man with a hay wagon and a donkey!
Margaret Holtschlag: I saw miles and hours of sunflowers!
Pat Goodman: Seems like road construction is happening for the first time. The infrastructure that is, there’s lots of construction going on everywhere.
Andrea Hartlund: As we drove across the country, I noticed that there’s very little development going on and if there are any activities at all, it’s very sparse.
Anne W. Dale Blair: The card-board cut out of cop cars stationed along the roads are quite interesting. Fake cop cars? C’mon!
Kristen Holtschlag: I noticed that there are so many trees ….and long tunnels.
Heather Bartlett: Van Gogh could not have painted enough sunflowers even if he could paint his entire life.
Julie Marek: I like the pre-fab houses. These are metal boxes with windows. Probably the first aluminum houses to exist.
Larry Neitzert: This is the first time I see an agriculture system much like the American model.
Carol Mohrlock: I noticed the bridges with Cyrillic boards as we get closer to Varna.
Karen Lee: There’s a lot more advertisement (highway billboards) that don’t make sense to me.
Shirley Hazlett: I saw small groups of people, men and women, sitting, having coffee and gossiping along the side of the roads.
AnnMarie Borders: I spotted a shepherd, some sheeps and lambs. The sheeps all walk in a straight line and the lambs were frolicking and gamboling on the field.
Pamela Galbraith: Bulgaria is the most beautiful country in the world!
Kristin Grattan: I am trying to make sense of all these Cyrillic signs….the bus is going too fast!
Le Tran: The contrasts found in this country are fascinating. There are farming equipments and then there are peasants working on the fields. There are crumbling apartments and there are posh new shops sitting next to each other.
We reached our destination at 5:30 p.m. Checked into our rooms with our new roommate and then walked toward the Black Sea. We had to check out the sea as most of us are from the Mid-West. We were definitely behaving like teenagers on the beach with our cameras snapping pictures with our friends. Some of us stayed on the beach until sunset. We enjoyed a leisurely dinner on the deck of a large restaurant. As far as our eyes could see, the water was beautiful and the sky clear. The clouds were pristinely white and magical. Seagulls chased each other across the sky, squealing like little children on a playground. The cool breezes of the ocean calmed us as we chatted away, enjoying each other’s company and the wonderful air enveloping us. What an end to another day in Bulgaria.
This time we are traveling east, from Blagoevgrad to Varna. That’s like Los Angeles to New York except it’s a shorter distance across Bulgaria. We began our cross-country journey at 7:00 am sharp with every member of the group on the bus. We were immediately rewarded with a stop at “Viva” gas station for coffee. Our bus driver, Georgi was the hero of the day for his quick maneuver to the nearest coffee pot. There’s nothing worse than driving a bus full of teachers who wants to know when they will get their coffee.
Here’s a list of things and activities that caught our attention on the roads across Bulgaria:
Stephanie Knapp: This country has more organized agriculture than I have ever seen; there are machinery and substantial sized fields planted with crops. Then I saw a man with a hay wagon and a donkey!
Margaret Holtschlag: I saw miles and hours of sunflowers!
Pat Goodman: Seems like road construction is happening for the first time. The infrastructure that is, there’s lots of construction going on everywhere.
Andrea Hartlund: As we drove across the country, I noticed that there’s very little development going on and if there are any activities at all, it’s very sparse.
Anne W. Dale Blair: The card-board cut out of cop cars stationed along the roads are quite interesting. Fake cop cars? C’mon!
Kristen Holtschlag: I noticed that there are so many trees ….and long tunnels.
Heather Bartlett: Van Gogh could not have painted enough sunflowers even if he could paint his entire life.
Julie Marek: I like the pre-fab houses. These are metal boxes with windows. Probably the first aluminum houses to exist.
Larry Neitzert: This is the first time I see an agriculture system much like the American model.
Carol Mohrlock: I noticed the bridges with Cyrillic boards as we get closer to Varna.
Karen Lee: There’s a lot more advertisement (highway billboards) that don’t make sense to me.
Shirley Hazlett: I saw small groups of people, men and women, sitting, having coffee and gossiping along the side of the roads.
AnnMarie Borders: I spotted a shepherd, some sheeps and lambs. The sheeps all walk in a straight line and the lambs were frolicking and gamboling on the field.
Pamela Galbraith: Bulgaria is the most beautiful country in the world!
Kristin Grattan: I am trying to make sense of all these Cyrillic signs….the bus is going too fast!
Le Tran: The contrasts found in this country are fascinating. There are farming equipments and then there are peasants working on the fields. There are crumbling apartments and there are posh new shops sitting next to each other.
We reached our destination at 5:30 p.m. Checked into our rooms with our new roommate and then walked toward the Black Sea. We had to check out the sea as most of us are from the Mid-West. We were definitely behaving like teenagers on the beach with our cameras snapping pictures with our friends. Some of us stayed on the beach until sunset. We enjoyed a leisurely dinner on the deck of a large restaurant. As far as our eyes could see, the water was beautiful and the sky clear. The clouds were pristinely white and magical. Seagulls chased each other across the sky, squealing like little children on a playground. The cool breezes of the ocean calmed us as we chatted away, enjoying each other’s company and the wonderful air enveloping us. What an end to another day in Bulgaria.
Shirley Hazlett--Wednesday, July 9
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
In Tune
Our morning started out at AUGB where we met our speaker for the day, Dr. Hristo Krotev, Music Professor and Choir Director at the university. He told us that over 700,000 pieces of folk music have been created and that the high diversity from various regions has created a “continent of music.” Dr. Krotev treated us to a peek into one of the most crucial and unique elements of Bulgarian music and dance: which “establishes a feeling for time and time proportions.” He went on to explain the difference between “internal process,” which embodies all time factors inside of the body, such as a heartbeat; and “external process,” which includes time processes outside of the body, including seasonal changes. After introductions on both sides, Dr. K. identified the musicians vs. the non-musicians (information that would come in handy during the subsequent pop quiz!) For those “musical illiterates” in the group, the lecture began on an elemental level as we were introduced to the even beats of 2/2 time before progressing—with examples—to 2/3, 2/4 etc. “Ha! This is easy—no problem,” we thought, and even the aforementioned oral quiz did not stump the scholarly understandings of our brave scholar, Karen, who identified the 2/2 beat without flinching!
Time Out
After our café break, the tempo progressed to “13” in a gorgeous display of Bulgarian virtuosity and we ended our session thoroughly impressed! It was interesting to hear the various regional styles of these traditional pieces, and the influences from Eastern or Western motifs found within. Group member, Carol Mohrlock, who has previously visited Poland on a Fulbright-Hays trip, later commented that she could identify the “thread” of Klezmer music (an Eastern European tradition emanating from the Jewish community) that was reminiscent of her visit near the Slovakian border. Finally, Dr. Krotev “gifted” our most musical members with a DVD recording of his choir’s performance at last year’s celebration of the 15th anniversary of AUGB; we enjoyed watching this during our afternoon bus ride to Bansko. The most exciting outcome of this meeting may be a visit to Michigan by the Dr. K.’s choir, which musicians, Pat and Ann, are will attempt to initiate. We look forward to the possibility of a reunion with some of our AUBG friends at a later date, in the U.S.
The Three Surprises
After class we hustled back to Skoptopara Odeen (our sturdy, Communist era-built dormitory) and quickly prepared for our afternoon “field trip.” We were headed to the town of Bansko in the Pirin Mountains, which is an up-and-coming ski resort…a relatively short ride away. Our first surprise (as we disembarked from our trusty bus) was that the weather was different here in the mountains, with a chilly wind whipping past our bare arms. Our second surprise was that the restaurants and museums in the resort section of this not-that-big town were closed (!) These two realizations seemed especially critical because our driver, Gyorgi, had just pulled away and would nor scheduled to return until early evening! As we walked from closed restaurant to closed museum to closed restaurant, our scholarly tummies began growling. Like a mirage beckoning the parched traveler, the wonderful sight of Kamenitsi (beer) umbrellas materialized on the horizon, and we knew what that meant…VODA!! (Water!!) At last we’d found the cafés of the locals. In a slightly weakened state, we trooped into the outdoor oasis of empty tables only to realize that this area was serving beverages, not true sustenance. Some folks elected to search out other nearby umbrella’d oases, but six or seven of us (sans Larry) thought, “No problem, we’ll just head inside to dine!” As we wove our way to the available booth at the far end of the facility we noticed many heads turning to inspect the newcomers…us! Our third surprise revealed itself as we realized that ALL of the diners were MEN, and that we appeared to be an unusual clientele in this setting. “No problem,” we thought; we’re so hungry that we’ll just plunk ourselves down and blend in as best we can…Or Not. We attempted to blend in for about two minutes before all heads bobbed horizontally in unison at the suggestion to leave…NOW! As we slipped out, the exterior signage beyond the establishment appeared to reveal that we had just infiltrated the Bansko Gun Club--at least that’s what we surmised from the oversized image of a revolver centered on the poster. Luckily, we quickly recovered from our faux pas and found excellent dining right down the street!
Having Gathered our Strength…
Fortified by Shopska Salad and other local delicacies, we gathered again and were pleased to find the “House (Museum) of Velyanov” open and welcoming to our investigations. This building is another example of the Bulgarian National Revival effort, but holds a particularly captivating history. During the Renaissance, the two-story house was built from stone and wood by a merchant family and also served to shelter the family’s livestock. Because it was constructed during the Ottoman occupation, warlords from Constantinople were a real and constant threat to its inhabitants. The architecture underscores this fear of intruders, as iron bars on the windows and small rectangular openings in the exterior walls (just large enough for a rifle’s nose) illustrate. In spite of a secret getaway tunnel (leading to the safe haven of the local church) designed to protect a mother and her newborn child, sadly…the merchant’s wife was killed here.
The owner vacated his dwelling and it stayed uninhabited for many years. In 1835, an artist named Velyano Gakushta was hired to paint the local church and was given the dilapidated house in payment for his effort. An eccentric character (hey…he was an artist) Velyano sported a large moustache and fancied dressing up like Napoleon. He decorated the house with murals to brighten it up, such as a sun and moon in the likeness of his wife, Sophia and himself; and a family of wolves caring for their young, as well of scenes of Venice and bluebird motifs, which symbolized Hope. When we were shown the comfy area “where men went to relax and take tea in the heat of the afternoon,” Anne Dale Blair queried as to the whereabouts of the women’s rest area, but received only a chuckle from our guide, in reply. Alas, there was a “women’s room, but it contained the tools necessary for spinning and weaving wool so necessary for running a household.
Pirin Winds
The courtyard of this living piece of history managed to refresh us, while whispering its palpable secrets--via the Pirin winds, as we proceeded to The Holy Trinity Church. We enjoyed its curvilinear entryway, enhanced by lyrically painted symbols along its cornices. After this homage, small groups departed to explore the local crafts guild and vendors, to scoop up more lovely examples of the intricacies of Bulgarian textiles that so many of us find entrancing. Hand-made lace in the form of a fish and “Good Night” tidings in Cyrillic (meant to be stitched to a pillow cover) were among the more unique and charming finds. Also cell phone totes in pink angora wool. Gyorgy graciously arrived earlier than planned and transported us back to Blagoevgrad and the consolation of the heat to which we’ve grown accustomed. The evening ended in the celebration of Andrea’s (real) birthday Happy “3-0” again, fellow traveler
By Shirley Hazlett…“Blog”-adareya!! (That means ‘Thanks for reading my blog,” in Bulgarian!)
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
We would like to say a huge THANK YOU for such a wonderful birthday celebration. We can't believe how generous and thoughtful everyone was to recognize our special days. You gave us a night that we will truly never forget! It has been such an honor to be a part of this experience with each one of you. ~Andrea, Stephanie, and Pat
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Andrea Hartlund--Tuesday, July 8
With so many happy birthday memories of the night before,
We walked across town to a lecture once more.
Today we heard the religious expertise of Serguey Ivanov at AUBG,
A complex timeline of beliefs and changes in Bulgaria we clearly did see.
Religion is an ideology, a harmony, an expression through contentment and strife,
It is a foundation that shapes all aspects of life.
Thus, by 681 AD Bulgaria’s identity was a bi-cultural system,
Slavic tribes (workers) and Proto-Bulgars (warriors) trusted their gods of thunder, sun and night to guide them.
From the 2nd-8th century Christianity and pagan religions appeared,
But the Slavo-Bulgars persecuted them because their differences they feared.
In the late 800’s the Christians had their chance to rise
But with the Byzantines, the popes and Patriarch Photius there were still struggles in their eyes.
Then a new form of written language SS Cyril (Constantine) and Methodius did invent,
A few changes were made, but for the Slavs the Cyrillic alphabet was meant.
In 1014 the Russian church was introduced by Bulgarian priest John,
But as Bulgaria and Byzantium were ruled by Ottomans the Muslim religion went on.
After 1054 the Byzantine Orthodoxy became the new Bulgarian church,
On the high walls of the churches the icons of saints did perch.
There were even two Patron Saints for the country of Bulgaria,
The female St. Petka and male St. John of Rila.
These icons are symbols, each one telling a story,
Of holy figures or saints in the hearts of people they bring glory.
The trinity is seen in the hands of the art being displayed
Depending on who they are will determine where the icons will be laid.
On either side of the King’s doors will always be the same.
Mary on the left and on the right, Jesus is the name.
As we heard these expert words from our very wise speaker
Our brains were definitely not becoming any weaker!
When the teaching was done we walked together on down,
To The Church of Annunciation in the heart of Old Town.
The building stands with beauty and grace,
As we learned many facts about this spiritual place.
To our own spirituality and personal experiences we tried to connect,
What we learned about the Orthodox Church in relation to other religious sects.
After this great learning experience with our professor was done,
We went to lunch for some delicious food and a little bit o’ fun!
All afternoon most of us spent time on our project or unit,
Many of us “on-the-goers” enjoyed the chance to just sit down and do it.
When our work was done we had excitedly decided to go,
Up the hill, to the restaurant we’d been waiting for…Hotel Christo.
Great friends, great food…the rain didn’t mean the end,
As many of us sat and cheered with a new British friend.
As the night fell, we see our fellow Fulbrighters surely hold the key,
By being such an inspiration on this magnificent journey!
Thank you for such an unforgettable experience!
We walked across town to a lecture once more.
Today we heard the religious expertise of Serguey Ivanov at AUBG,
A complex timeline of beliefs and changes in Bulgaria we clearly did see.
Religion is an ideology, a harmony, an expression through contentment and strife,
It is a foundation that shapes all aspects of life.
Thus, by 681 AD Bulgaria’s identity was a bi-cultural system,
Slavic tribes (workers) and Proto-Bulgars (warriors) trusted their gods of thunder, sun and night to guide them.
From the 2nd-8th century Christianity and pagan religions appeared,
But the Slavo-Bulgars persecuted them because their differences they feared.
In the late 800’s the Christians had their chance to rise
But with the Byzantines, the popes and Patriarch Photius there were still struggles in their eyes.
Then a new form of written language SS Cyril (Constantine) and Methodius did invent,
A few changes were made, but for the Slavs the Cyrillic alphabet was meant.
In 1014 the Russian church was introduced by Bulgarian priest John,
But as Bulgaria and Byzantium were ruled by Ottomans the Muslim religion went on.
After 1054 the Byzantine Orthodoxy became the new Bulgarian church,
On the high walls of the churches the icons of saints did perch.
There were even two Patron Saints for the country of Bulgaria,
The female St. Petka and male St. John of Rila.
These icons are symbols, each one telling a story,
Of holy figures or saints in the hearts of people they bring glory.
The trinity is seen in the hands of the art being displayed
Depending on who they are will determine where the icons will be laid.
On either side of the King’s doors will always be the same.
Mary on the left and on the right, Jesus is the name.
As we heard these expert words from our very wise speaker
Our brains were definitely not becoming any weaker!
When the teaching was done we walked together on down,
To The Church of Annunciation in the heart of Old Town.
The building stands with beauty and grace,
As we learned many facts about this spiritual place.
To our own spirituality and personal experiences we tried to connect,
What we learned about the Orthodox Church in relation to other religious sects.
After this great learning experience with our professor was done,
We went to lunch for some delicious food and a little bit o’ fun!
All afternoon most of us spent time on our project or unit,
Many of us “on-the-goers” enjoyed the chance to just sit down and do it.
When our work was done we had excitedly decided to go,
Up the hill, to the restaurant we’d been waiting for…Hotel Christo.
Great friends, great food…the rain didn’t mean the end,
As many of us sat and cheered with a new British friend.
As the night fell, we see our fellow Fulbrighters surely hold the key,
By being such an inspiration on this magnificent journey!
Thank you for such an unforgettable experience!
Stephanie Knapp--Monday, July 7
July 7, 2008 Surprise Cultural Event
When we adjusted our schedule a new event was added for Monday night, a Modern Art exhibit was happening in town. So dressed in our finest attire we departed for the event. We looked forward to this event with great anticipation. Little did we know what was really in store for the July birthday girls (Andrea, Pat and Stephanie). We didn’t have a clue.
Pushing open the heavy wooden doors we entered a marble foyer. Following the highly polished stairs was a little like walking down the marble brick road. Up we went, then down, then twisting all around until we reached a room with tables set with cloth napkins, wine glasses and plates of cheeses and meats. Where was the art?
Surprise! Our fellow Fulbrights had organized a cultural event to celebrate our birthdays! Evelina , our revered professor, joined us at our special event. Our hearts were overwhelmed with their generosity and kindness. Their thoughtfulness brought tears to our eyes.
We were treated to a history of the wine making business in Bulgaria via video. What an interesting industry for this country. As we sampled three different Bulgarian wines we learned the art of tasting wine. Georgi, the sommelier taught us to appreciate wine with all five senses. First you look for clarity, then color. In red wine, a blue tint indicates youth while an orange hue indicates age. Then smell the wine by swirling it in the glass. Finally, taste the wine by chewing it in your mouth. Then we listened to the appreciation of the group.
Afterwards, we toured the wine cellar and went upstairs for dinner and dancing. It was a night we will never forget!
Bulgaria under Communism July 7, 2008
Ø In 1944 the Red Army marched into Bulgaria. The Father Land Front maintained power. This group was composed of the following parties: communist, Agrarian, Socialist and Zveno
Ø In 1946 this group passed a referendum that abolished the monarchy. The republic of Bulgaria was established.
Ø A huge demographic shift occurred when peoples in the mountains and rural villages were forced to move into the cities. Before communism 80% of the population was in the rural areas after 80% were in the cities. This was done so that they could have ultimate control over the masses.
Ø Collective farms were established which ruined the agriculture of the country. Since people who worked the land were sent to the cities there weren’t enough people to work the land.
Ø In the city people were assigned apartments and told how many people could live in the apartments.
Ø Moving all peoples to the city was meant to dilute the social strata so as to squelch any signs of unrest.
Ø Secret police and the military had all the power. They watched and reported about the citizens. Microphones were also used to record conversations everywhere, even in your home.
Ø Soviet Union issued all the orders for what was happening in Bulgaria. Bulgarians had no say.
Ø Mistrust and suspicion were the feelings everywhere.
Ø The churches were subdued at all levels. Often heads of the churches were spies for the state.
Ø People were persecuted, tortured and put in concentration camps.
Ø The well educated and professional population was under very close scrutiny. The archive of Internal Ministries held documents on people, 25 km of files. Many were denied access to jobs, travel and education.
Ø Free education and medical care was available for all but what you studied was controlled and bribery for good medical care existed.
Ø Factories were built but failed because of mismanagement.
Ø The arts (dance, theater, music) suffered.
Ø No one could travel abroad.
Ø A phony sense of security existed with everyone getting the same amount of money, educational opportunities, and medical care. But no luxuries such as shoes, sanitary pads etc. As a result people lacked incentive, responsibility, and the right to think freely.
Ø The communists created a feudal society with a small non-educated ruling class.
Ø Post communist Bulgaria
Many current developments exist because of the communist era. Many people have no concept of civil service. Bulgaria didn’t have a well-prepared dissident group to become leaders. So the former leaders and their families still maintained control. It is widely recognized that corruption is a major problem in this country.
Ethnic Groups in Bulgaria
Romani
v Originated in northern India and migrated during the Roman Empire era. In the 18th century they were forced out of Romania, Spain and Hungary and they settled in Southeastern Europe.
v Population 400,000 to 500,000 now but this is the largest growing population. The largest group live in Plovdiv; they number around 80,000.
Under communism put into ghettos to control them.
v Prior to that many of them had skills to support themselves. Now unemployment is high. Many of them do jobs that no one else would do but receive no pay such as, collecting abandoned household items and sweeping the streets. Some travel doing construction jobs.
v Only a small part of them are trained to be thieves.
v They have their own language but no written alphabet. Most of their culture is an oral tradition.
v Most of the children in orphanages are Romani.
v Children are quick learners but school is not valued. So they are barely educated.
v Homes for the elderly are devoid of Roma. They are kept in the community and cared for by all.
Turks
v Prior to communism lived in villages.
v Population 1,000,000v In 1944 they were given the right to cultural autonomy which meant they could establish their own schools
v They are bilingual which means they speak both Bulgarian and Turkish.
v They are Muslim.
v Well educated and peaceful people.
v Under communism they were perceived as the enemy. Now some Bulgarians don’t trust them.
v In 1984 they were forced to take Bulgarian names which meant they couldn’t maintain their autonomous rights. So 300,000 to 350,000 went to Turkey but many came back.
v Live in Bulgarian neighborhoods where they are peaceful, supportive and cooperative neighbors.
Pomaks
v Reside in the Rhodophi mountains in traditional villages. Their homes are very colorful.
v Population 100,000 to 150,00
v They are Muslim and speak the Bulgarian language.
v During the Ottoman rule they converted to Muslim for economic and political reasons. If they converted they could buy a house. For this reason Turks didn’t honor their conversion.
v Keep the Bulgarian folklore, music, textiles and traditions alive.
v Rejected everything associated with the Eastern Orthodox Church. Hated the corruption of church officials.
v 1972 forced to change their names to Bulgarian
Karakachaniv Population 12,000
v Some believe they are the remnants of the Thracians.
v Their name means “black headed”
v Prior to communism they were the shepherds. The communists took all their sheep
v Eastern Orthodox Religion Jews
v In 1945 there numbers were 45, 000 now they number around 1,000.
v They left when Israel was created. They boarded two ships and as the ships left the harbor the sea turned red because they discarded their party cards.
v Lived in cities because according to the Catholic Church law they didn’t have the right to buy land.
v They were kicked out of Spain and only the Ottoman Empire would welcome them.
v They built schools and temples in the cities.
Armenians
They have been city dwellers since the Roman Empire.
v Many have immigrated to America.
When we adjusted our schedule a new event was added for Monday night, a Modern Art exhibit was happening in town. So dressed in our finest attire we departed for the event. We looked forward to this event with great anticipation. Little did we know what was really in store for the July birthday girls (Andrea, Pat and Stephanie). We didn’t have a clue.
Pushing open the heavy wooden doors we entered a marble foyer. Following the highly polished stairs was a little like walking down the marble brick road. Up we went, then down, then twisting all around until we reached a room with tables set with cloth napkins, wine glasses and plates of cheeses and meats. Where was the art?
Surprise! Our fellow Fulbrights had organized a cultural event to celebrate our birthdays! Evelina , our revered professor, joined us at our special event. Our hearts were overwhelmed with their generosity and kindness. Their thoughtfulness brought tears to our eyes.
We were treated to a history of the wine making business in Bulgaria via video. What an interesting industry for this country. As we sampled three different Bulgarian wines we learned the art of tasting wine. Georgi, the sommelier taught us to appreciate wine with all five senses. First you look for clarity, then color. In red wine, a blue tint indicates youth while an orange hue indicates age. Then smell the wine by swirling it in the glass. Finally, taste the wine by chewing it in your mouth. Then we listened to the appreciation of the group.
Afterwards, we toured the wine cellar and went upstairs for dinner and dancing. It was a night we will never forget!
Bulgaria under Communism July 7, 2008
Ø In 1944 the Red Army marched into Bulgaria. The Father Land Front maintained power. This group was composed of the following parties: communist, Agrarian, Socialist and Zveno
Ø In 1946 this group passed a referendum that abolished the monarchy. The republic of Bulgaria was established.
Ø A huge demographic shift occurred when peoples in the mountains and rural villages were forced to move into the cities. Before communism 80% of the population was in the rural areas after 80% were in the cities. This was done so that they could have ultimate control over the masses.
Ø Collective farms were established which ruined the agriculture of the country. Since people who worked the land were sent to the cities there weren’t enough people to work the land.
Ø In the city people were assigned apartments and told how many people could live in the apartments.
Ø Moving all peoples to the city was meant to dilute the social strata so as to squelch any signs of unrest.
Ø Secret police and the military had all the power. They watched and reported about the citizens. Microphones were also used to record conversations everywhere, even in your home.
Ø Soviet Union issued all the orders for what was happening in Bulgaria. Bulgarians had no say.
Ø Mistrust and suspicion were the feelings everywhere.
Ø The churches were subdued at all levels. Often heads of the churches were spies for the state.
Ø People were persecuted, tortured and put in concentration camps.
Ø The well educated and professional population was under very close scrutiny. The archive of Internal Ministries held documents on people, 25 km of files. Many were denied access to jobs, travel and education.
Ø Free education and medical care was available for all but what you studied was controlled and bribery for good medical care existed.
Ø Factories were built but failed because of mismanagement.
Ø The arts (dance, theater, music) suffered.
Ø No one could travel abroad.
Ø A phony sense of security existed with everyone getting the same amount of money, educational opportunities, and medical care. But no luxuries such as shoes, sanitary pads etc. As a result people lacked incentive, responsibility, and the right to think freely.
Ø The communists created a feudal society with a small non-educated ruling class.
Ø Post communist Bulgaria
Many current developments exist because of the communist era. Many people have no concept of civil service. Bulgaria didn’t have a well-prepared dissident group to become leaders. So the former leaders and their families still maintained control. It is widely recognized that corruption is a major problem in this country.
Ethnic Groups in Bulgaria
Romani
v Originated in northern India and migrated during the Roman Empire era. In the 18th century they were forced out of Romania, Spain and Hungary and they settled in Southeastern Europe.
v Population 400,000 to 500,000 now but this is the largest growing population. The largest group live in Plovdiv; they number around 80,000.
Under communism put into ghettos to control them.
v Prior to that many of them had skills to support themselves. Now unemployment is high. Many of them do jobs that no one else would do but receive no pay such as, collecting abandoned household items and sweeping the streets. Some travel doing construction jobs.
v Only a small part of them are trained to be thieves.
v They have their own language but no written alphabet. Most of their culture is an oral tradition.
v Most of the children in orphanages are Romani.
v Children are quick learners but school is not valued. So they are barely educated.
v Homes for the elderly are devoid of Roma. They are kept in the community and cared for by all.
Turks
v Prior to communism lived in villages.
v Population 1,000,000v In 1944 they were given the right to cultural autonomy which meant they could establish their own schools
v They are bilingual which means they speak both Bulgarian and Turkish.
v They are Muslim.
v Well educated and peaceful people.
v Under communism they were perceived as the enemy. Now some Bulgarians don’t trust them.
v In 1984 they were forced to take Bulgarian names which meant they couldn’t maintain their autonomous rights. So 300,000 to 350,000 went to Turkey but many came back.
v Live in Bulgarian neighborhoods where they are peaceful, supportive and cooperative neighbors.
Pomaks
v Reside in the Rhodophi mountains in traditional villages. Their homes are very colorful.
v Population 100,000 to 150,00
v They are Muslim and speak the Bulgarian language.
v During the Ottoman rule they converted to Muslim for economic and political reasons. If they converted they could buy a house. For this reason Turks didn’t honor their conversion.
v Keep the Bulgarian folklore, music, textiles and traditions alive.
v Rejected everything associated with the Eastern Orthodox Church. Hated the corruption of church officials.
v 1972 forced to change their names to Bulgarian
Karakachaniv Population 12,000
v Some believe they are the remnants of the Thracians.
v Their name means “black headed”
v Prior to communism they were the shepherds. The communists took all their sheep
v Eastern Orthodox Religion Jews
v In 1945 there numbers were 45, 000 now they number around 1,000.
v They left when Israel was created. They boarded two ships and as the ships left the harbor the sea turned red because they discarded their party cards.
v Lived in cities because according to the Catholic Church law they didn’t have the right to buy land.
v They were kicked out of Spain and only the Ottoman Empire would welcome them.
v They built schools and temples in the cities.
Armenians
They have been city dwellers since the Roman Empire.
v Many have immigrated to America.
Shirley Hazlett-Karen Lee--Sunday, July 5
Sunday- July 6th Melnik
I preface today with this simple statement- YOU HAD TO BE THERE! It is impossible to capture in words (or at least the words in my left brain) the beauty of the land, the generosity of the people and the richness found in Bulgarian culture.
The message arrived that we were to be on the bus at 8:45 with our bags packed. But first we greeted by the smiling and energetic Ivan Usunov who ushered us into breakfast with a beautifully set table and a wonderfully homemade bonista (a cheesy flakey pastry that I could easily eat everyday) and delicious coffee. We got our taste of Bulgaria’s specially made yogurt which is unique to the region because of the cultures found in the air- many of us added jam so the taste would not be as sour. Then we said our goodbyes to Melnik. I couldn’t help but wonder what the town at been like at the height of its population. In 1913 the Greeks came and took all the other Greeks with them sending Menlik’s population into a decline. Today it is home to 150 people making it “Bulgaria’s smallest town” according to Lonely Planet (my source of all information outside of Heather). It felt like home to many of us while we were there.
After a brief stop to pick up Yane and Elana, we traveled deep into the mountains to a village that captures the hospitality of Bulgaria. We wound through the mountains and found ourselves in the village of Jacobcovo- Jacob’s town. Thirty years ago, the Communist government told the village people that they needed to move to another village and begin collective farming making the people easier to control. Now the residents of Jacobcovo are mainly from the older generation and hold the traditions that are slowly fading away from Bulgarian folk music. The village greeted us warmly with a 75-year old aunt of our guide climbing down a rocky hill in 5 minutes that took us Americans a good 15 minutes to navigate. As she welcomed us into her home she turned to a few of us and proclaimed, “welcome to my Neolithic home.” It got a chuckle out of all of us as we greeted each other with kisses.
As we finished our tour of the village, including fresh cherries from the tree, we were given a great treat with an impromptu jam session of traditional Bulgarian music played on the most beautiful instruments by smiling old men who were joyous to share their culture with us. I will leave it to my right brain counterpart to capture the moment and feeling in the air, the best I can say is that it was magical.
We all piled on the bus and headed back down the mountain. As I looked out the window, I asked Elana what was beyond the majestic Pirin Mountain range. She simply “replied another culture, another piece of Bulgaria.” I couldn’t help but pause and be so thankful that we are all working on putting together the puzzle pieces of Bulgaria.
Lunch was next and proved to be more than any of us could imagine. We had a true feast (although they claimed they eat like this in everyday life) with one of the families who had been displaced from the mountain village we visited earlier in the day. Dish upon dish came out, one after another- all completely homemade from the plentiful lands around the home. First was the traditional drink of Rikea, followed by a cucumber, dill, yogurt drink, mish-mash, potatoes and onions, fresh tomatoes, homemade feta cheese, cucumbers, rice with eggs on top, stuffed green peppers, bread, bonista, hot peppers…..our eyes grew wide with each new plate being passed. One glance over at the couch after lunch and you could see the glassy “I’m the kind of full I get on Thanksgiving” look on everyone’s eyes. Somehow we managed to find room for another round of Bulgarian yogurt, this time with a fresh fig from the tree out back and a little bit of sugar to make it a sweet treat.
We spent the afternoon dancing away the day learning the traditional dances to go with the melodic songs coming from magical instruments behind us. Some of us danced, other sang and still others were invited to play along. However, all of us were welcomed into the hearts and home of our new Bulgarian friends. Language did not matter, citizenship did not matter, we simply learned to sing and celebrate in our own common language.
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Karen Lee-Shirley Hazlett-Saturday, July 5
Our weekend in Melnik was full of adventure, new lessons, old traditions and personal connections that can only be told through two sides of the story. The left brain traditionally records events in sequence and the right brain fills in the emotions and creativity of the story. We thought we would tell you our story through a whole-brain approach.
Left Brain- By Karen Lee
Right Brain- By Shirley Hazlett
The left brain side of things…..
Saturday, July 6th- Melnik
The day began with decisions- should I wake up early and go on a pilgrimage hike that would result in walking up the dirt road to the beautiful Rozhen Monastery or hit the snooze button and grab the bus that left an hour later and ride to in the same beautiful location. Being the logically minded person that I am- I hit snooze and wished my roommate good luck on the hike. From the smiling faces that met us “bus goers” at the Monastery, the hike provided personal reflection time and the overcoming of obstacles. Led by the angelic dog, fondly called Gabriel, our hikers were delivered safely to the join the group and share stories of personal triumphs from the hike.
The Rozhen Monastery, also known as the Birth of the Virgin Mary Monastery, was originally built in 1217. It was later destroyed by the Turks and rebuilt 1732. The Revival Revolutionary Yane Sandanski’s grave is located on the grounds of the Monastery and overlooks the beautiful Pirin Mountains. It was a morning that allowed for a slower pace and reflection on the things we are learning and thinking about. After viewing the inside of the Monastery and looking at the incredible icons inside, a monk sat down with us to explain the difference between Protestant, Catholic and Eastern Orthodox religions. We all walked away from the morning with many ideas to wrestle with.
After a quick bite to eat, the weavers headed to our first workshop with Yane and Elena. We started out with learning how to prepare the loom by dying our wool with natural colors from the trees and flowers that grow in the Pirin Mountains. We each took our turn preparing the warp and learning the intricate details involved in authentic weaving on our own looms. I walked away with a new appreciation of the work and love that goes into clothing and woven fabrics. I looked at the shop across the creak bed (where our group generously supported the Melnik economy) and wondered why the prices were so low for such hard work. My left brain and I walked on with a heavy heart as the music folks moved into get their workshop started and exercise the creativity flowing out the right side of their brains.
The next stop was the Kordopulov Revival House. After some very big hills and cobblestone roads that left each of us a little breathless at the top (Margaret even more so since she ran up and down the hills like a sheep herder making sure that all her little sheep made it to the correct destination) we all entered the house in good spirits and looked around imagining life in 1754 when it was built. After the tour we headed down and out of the building to discover the beautiful wine cellar that was tucked under the house in the hillside. We wandered through the tunnels and passageways to discover a shining wall of coins. We each added our coins and good wishes for good weather and good crops- defining what crops we were hoping for in our own lives.
The evening ended with a lovely stroll down the road and into many different delicious restaurants that lined the hillside. There was much laughter in the air and smiles on everyone’s face. Goes to show that a day in the mountains is always good for the soul (spoken from the Idaho girl on the trip).
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