Friday, July 18, 2008

Sunday, July 20







Beautiful city of Sophia

Saturday, July 19




Goodbye to Blagoevgrad, Hello Sophia!

Friday, July 18

Julie Marek’s school website:
http://my.ccsd.net/classes.phtml?site_id=1849881224-Marek&tracking_id=551185


From Heather Bartlett—Michigan curriculum collation website, applying the GLCEs to Social Studies:
http://www.micitizenshipcurriculum.org/index.html


Kristen Holtschlag’s AP Language website:
http://kholtschlag.googlepages.com


Karen Lee’s “This I Believe” project:
http://evans.socstud1.googlepages.com/mayabelieves


Andrea Hartlund’s Photo Book project:
www.shutterfly.com

The quote page can be found at:
http://www.scrapbook.com/quotes.php


From Margaret Holtschlag —United Nations CyberschoolBus for comparing statistics about countries:
www.un.org


From Ann Marie Borders:
http://mimipet.com/

Online picture editing website/Free
http://www.picnik.com/

Recipes
http://www.foodnetwork.com/

http://www.passionateaboutfood.net/bulgarian.php

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Ann Marie Borders--Thursday, July 17























Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding, ding, 6:00 a.m. ring the tower bells. “Good morning sunshine!” calls out one of the 5 roommates as we burrow more deeply under the covers of our cot beds. This is the coldest weather since arriving in Bulgaria and we’ve just completed a night in the Rila Monastery. We need to dress quickly for the 6:30 a.m. service in the church. Some make the trip to the “squatty potty” others head outside for pictures.

The monastery itself is an amazing complex of rooms in four stories. While our room on the third floor is simple with six cots a table, a chair and a sink, the ceiling is an elaborately carved flower with three dimensional petals and inner shapes. Flower boxes appear in a variety of places. We watch the sunrise as mist rises from the tree covered mountains. The serenity and peace in this early morning hour is accompanied by the knowledge that we survived a night without ANY modern conveniences.

The Church of the Nativity centered in the courtyard is the largest monastery church in Bulgaria. Icons cover a large part of the facade and appear to have been recently renovated. They include clear, bright pictures of Saints, Angels, and Bible stories. Darker visions of hell complete the bottom portions of the walls. Inside, elaborate carvings and icons fill the room, murals cover the walls and yet the feeling is austere in its darkness.

One’s focus is immediately drawn to the light coming from the three domes and candles shining on the iconostasis (wood carving and icon filled altar screen) created by Samokov woodcarvers working under Atanas Telado from 1839 to 1842. Thirty-three feet wide and at least twenty feet tall, it is an elaborate set of carvings and icons covered in gold leaf. (The writer met an Italian speaking woodcarver/carpenter working on this and other renovations in the monastery.

The service begins with one priest intoning prayers. Responses come from behind the altar screen. Dressed in elaborate vestments, another priest emerges bearing incense and blessing church icons. It is difficult for us to understand the prayers spoken in Bulgarian, and we are unused to standing for long periods of time but it was worth it to hear the warm, rich voices rolling like gentle waves over the listeners as monks worship using a variety of musical styles. Vocals covered intoned prayers. Some songs include the traditional Bulgarian drone. Finally, monks sing music divided into parts. Being non-Orthodox it is a gift to be allowed to attend services that are usually reserved to church members. The realization that there are differences between our cultures is again brought home and leads to a variety of discussions as we leave in search of COFFEE. No luck.

Walking around the grounds of the courtyard, the most impressive sight is of the original kitchen. Built by a man considered illiterate, it is honeycomb shaped and carved with years of soot covering the walls. A tour guide explains that the soot from the cooking area rises through the building coating the walls in three distinct places. Once the smoke reaches the opening at the top it is “white.” Hence, it is sited as being the world’s first ecologically clean building. The kitchen can feed hundreds of people at a time. One pot is touted as being big enough to hold a cow.

The museum contains an amazing collection of artifacts dating from the 16th through the 20th centuries. Chalices, gold and jewel encrusted manuscripts, keys, icons, woven epitasplios (shrouds) from 1855 and 1859, and vestments fill the glass covered cases. Most impressive is the printing machine, (1865) metal clichés and copies of these first prints displaying pictures of the Saints and Mary. The same room contained illuminated manuscripts and copies of manuscripts with musical notation from 1888.

Breakfast and COFFEE followed by a side trip to Happy Donuts brought smiles to all everyone. We packed, loaded the van and began our departure from the monastery. Making a three point turn on a road the size of a ribbon with the mountain on one side and a steep cliff edge on the other had everyone praising yet again our fantastic driver, Jorge. We really appreciate his skill.
It is impossible to relate everything we see on this trip. Here are a few views as we leave the monastery and head for Blagoevgrad.

*Crystal clear, baby blue skies replace the overcast, heavy rainclouds of the previous day.
*Tree covered mountains fill our line of sight for miles
*Bubbling river sounds fill the air as we cross the bridge.
*Young girls sit under a red-stripped umbrella selling honey at the side of the road.
*Wildflowers of purple, yellow and white turn their faces to the morning sun.
*Dusty roads lead to small villages and gardens.
*Jagged rock face borders the road with an occasional bush or vine struggling to grow.
*“Fish crossing” sign is seen outside the fish hatchery.
*Yellow fields of freshly cut hay are interspersed with green fields of corn and other plantings.
*“Oh my gosh!” punctuates the silence as storks perched on lampposts and chimneys are sighted.

Finally, Blagoevgrad, we are home. Home to room and roommate changes, key changes, new linens, luggage, food, laundry, and email. Once settled, some head to dinner with Nadia, Pamela and Margaret, some to the grocery store and some to the computer room.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Le Tran--Wednesday, July 16


































What could be more relaxing than starting your day with coffee, friends and art making?

The Fulbrighters did just that. We gathered in the dorm’s lobby where there are several tables (perfect for art making) and a small coffee shop. Like my students, the teachers asked if they could eat and drink while doing their artwork. “Of-course”, is my automatic response.

As they filled the seats, I can feel the excitement rising in my heart. I am introducing iconography, an art form that has been and remained to be a major part of Bulgaria’s identity. Bulgaria was one of the first Eastern European nations to adopt the Christian faith; icons were the “bible” for the people since literacy was very low during this time. Christians believed that icons are sanctified objects that help them to feel the presence of God. Icons are traditionally stylized and unrealistic works of art.

The artists selected an icon from the collection I have accumulated thus far. They copied the image using watercolor and paper. The materials fitted the occasion since we had limited time and space for an authentic experience in icon painting. Once the brushes flowed, I could tell that my artists were relaxing and enjoying the process. It was a delight to see the paintings developed so quickly and that everyone was having fun. Carol may not have seen this as relaxing but we had fun nevertheless!

At 11:00 a.m., we boarded the bus with our overnight bag for Rila Monastery. I should mention that Kristin Grattan stayed within the luggage limit as this is Camp Bulgaria in her mind. The drive was approximately an hour from Blagoevgrad. We drove up to an altitude of 1147 meters, which meant cooler air for our weary campers.

Rila Monastery is a symbol of everything that is Bulgaria: the majestic mountains that surround the monastery, the monastery with its long history that was intricately woven with the country’s politics, culture and education. During the Second Bulgarian Kingdom (1185- 1396), the royalty gave this land to the Bulgarian people to build a monastery to establish and propagate the veneration for Saint Ivan Rilski, a hermit and a miracle-worker. The cave in which he lived is up on the mountain. Supposedly, he performed many miracles but the most important miracle of all was healing the possessed. People heard about him all over the land and he became a national hero. After he died, pilgrims flocked to this holy place to honor the humble man whom the Church later ordained a saint.

The monastery has become a tourist destination in recent years. We felt the frenzy of the place immediately upon arrival. It was like an international fair. A variety of languages can be heard as bus loads of people congregated at the entrance. We were taken back by the expansiveness of the complex and the ornate Church of Nativity. There were three domes that rise rhythmically over the central nave. Surrounding the church is a monumental open porch. Its walls and ceilings are covered with beautiful frescos depicting religious people and events of the bible. The cobble-stone courtyard is light and airy. The 300 or more monks’cells surround the main church and act as a “fortress”, protecting its inhabitants over the years. Now these cells are available to tourists like us. We wouldn’t consider them as bed and breakfast or hostels….as a matter-of- fact; we don’t know what to call them. Although we were forwarned that there would be no shower at this place and that we shouldn’t expect any modern conveniences, nothing could have prepared us for our overnight stay at the monastery. Reality hits hard when we checked into our six person room for the night and then discovered that the bathroom was down the hall and one floor below. It wasn’t an ordinary bathroom but an ancient facility that deterred us from our nightly consumption of fluid and fellowship.

We dropped off our bags and headed for a long and challenging hike up to St. Ivan’s cave which was 4.8 km, uphill all the way! We saw open fields with gorgeous colors of gold, violet, yellow, orange, brown, white wild flowers and tall grasses. I wished I could have stopped and painted the scenery before me. It was absolutely breath-taking. The mountains rose in the background and above them were clouds and mists that mingled together to create a mysterious shroud that was constantly changing. The quick flowing rivers dotted the land; creating an obstacle for the hikers and at the same time provided us its relaxing sound of gurgling water. Once in a while, we encountered a waterfall. Its power drowned out our voices, reminding us of our place in this universe. Nature has a way of bringing us back to our humanity, no matter where we stand in this beautiful world.

The climax of the hike came when we entered St. Ivan’s cave. It took a minute or so for our eyes to adjust to the darkness inside the cave and then we discovered an altar with three icons. We paid our respect silently then one by one, we carefully climbed up the steps leading to a narrow and twisting opening. The opening leads up to another level of the mountain. Legend has it that anyone who has lived a good life will pass thru this opening. The hikers in our group all passed this test including me. We were cheered on by a group of children who had traveled through the cave before us. It was all very exhilarating!

In the end, it was me, Kristin G and Larry that trudged down last from the mountains. Our bodies sore, our feet wanted to scream and Larry’s knees wanted to be stay upon the mountains and forget about the climb down.

We met up with the rest of the hikers at the foot of the mountains, at a restaurant closest to the monastery. We enjoyed the little luxury and conveniences of the facility before heading to the monastery. Knowing that the gate closes at 9:00 p.m., we stayed out until a minute before curfew, such rebels we are!

Back to the room of six women, we ventured to the bathroom together. What a great bonding experience this was for us. I told Pat that I have done my penance, between climbing all the way to the cave and enduring this pit-i-ful bathroom, I have definitely earned my way to heaven. We went back to our room and had a snore- strip party, courtesy of Pat. The only thing we heard throughout the night was the church bell.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Karen Lee--Tuesday, July 15








What does freedom look like when you are not use to being free?


In the government class that I teach, I try to center my students on a few essential questions that we ask every unit and develop our answers as we progress in our study of US Government. One of the anchoring question is, “when is it right to fight back?” This morning during our lecture on democracy in Bulgaria, I found myself screaming in my head, “now Bulgaria, fight back now!”


Dr. Ivelin Sardarnov titled his discussion today, “Bulgaria’s Troubled Transition” and provided us with many reasons why Bulgaria is troubled. Here are a few facts:

Bulgaria’s political system is labeled as a parliamentary republic- but even that title seems a little troubled.

There is a president- Georgi Parvanov- who functions with limited power and a Prime Minister- Sergey Stanishev- who leads the 240 member Parliament.

The coalition of political parties that currently makes up Parliament are: Bulgarian Socialist Party (majority), National Movement Simeon II, and Movement for Rights and Freedoms.

The Constitution of the Republic of Bulgaria was written in 1991.

There is a Constitutional Court where judges are appointed by both the President and Parliament for a fixed term. The EU has pushed Bulgaria to appoint a “watchdog” to ensure that there is a balance between independence and accountability to those serving on the court.

There is a limited system to make changes to the Constitution- our professor thinks changes that have to go through the Grand National Assembly (the amendment process) are unlikely.

Today’s lecture was the final and possibly the most complete thread to run throughout our studies since we have come to Bulgaria. Combining our knowledge of Bulgarian history, economics, music, art, literature, and now politics- our picture of this beautiful country speaks to each of us in a different way.

What became clear is that people around the world, act similarly when they have been oppressed for a long period of time. Dictionary.com defines oppression in the following way:

op·pres·sion –noun
1. The exercise of authority or power in a burdensome, crew or unjust manner
2. the feeling of being heavily burdened, mentally or physically by troubles, adverse conditions, anxiety, etc.

Bulgaria has been an oppressed country for thousands of years. Between the Ottomans and Communism, it has been hard for Bulgaria to define who and what Bulgaria is on their own. The actions and attitude of the country can be linked to the long term oppression that has been present. Although the people that we have met along the way are trying to preserve a part of the history or culture, there does not seem to be a collective movement to “find Bulgaria’s place in the world.” After years of having a collective enemy, Bulgarians are now searching for a way out of the corruption in politics, law enforcement, economics and social systems. The irony of the Communist fallout is that instead of developing a sense of collective ownership as it was designed, it has left a feeling that no one owns anything. Which leads to the problem, like many around the world who have been oppressed, is that hope and trust in the system or authority has been replaced with pessimism and an individualistic look at how to survive. Bulgaria seems to be lacking a common goal to fight for. Without movement forward then the perception becomes, things were better when….

Bulgaria’s efforts to join the European Union and meet the standards that are expected with that title could be the catalyst for change that this country needs. The EU could serve as the watchdog that keeps the “vultures” away. Bulgaria is looking for someone to check the abuse of power and to ensure the common good is valued again. The lingering question is what will have to be sacrificed to make this change. Will it be the family values that are so intertwined with the culture, the historical culture that is rich in tradition and pride, or a sense of nationalism? Our hope for Bulgaria is that this country will realize its potential through education, trade and their glorious history of overcoming troubled times.

We started out on this journey looking at Bulgaria as a multilayered cake. I have to think that I am leaving this country at a time where another layer has just been added on. But I am confident that Bulgaria is not quite ready for the icing to top this country’s cake. We have not seen the best part of Bulgaria yet. I look forward to the day that the rest of the world understands Bulgaria in the way that we have been able to through our time and experiences here.


Here are the ideas from the post-it notes we wrote after today's lecture:

Big Ideas
- Bulgaria has a conflict of values between the strength of kinship ties and the absence of a goal of working together toward the common good.
- Good to hear both sides of the story
- Oppression has a lasting impact on people (both individuals and societies)
- What will it take to stimulate change in Bulgaria?
- The overall demographic trend facing Bulgaria today and its impact on the culture
- The corruption of political, economic and social systems in Bulgaria. The impact that this corruption has.
- The importance of joining the European Union and the future role it will make on the Bulgarian people.
- Upward mobility requires a sacrifice of tradition/family- harder with a great tradition
- Every society has its groups that function without intervention- gangs, hoodlums, mafia, thugs
- The EU is forcing change in economics, politics and judicial system using monetary controls.
- Family and kinship are very important historically to Bulgarians but can have positive and negative effects on greater society as a whole.
- Attitude and optimism/pessimism can be determined by status in society
- Pessimism breads an apathetic approach to life. People don't work as a collective group because of communism being dominated, corruption, fear/safety, prejudice, lack of tolerance
- Today's lecture was the thread to all other lectures- even the music and religion lectures by not mentioning these disciplines
- The element of change. Today's lecture on political change has had a great impact on the changes discussed in other lectures- historical regime change, presence of religion, economic change
- The data (information) given by the last presenter was consistent with the other presenters. The tone or view was quite different nevertheless.
- Irony of Communist fallout: instead of collective ownership, a sense that no one owns anything. Connection between Didar's discussion on housing and apartments and the lack of law enforcement for public services (parking, littering, etc.)
- What will be the next layer to the cake? Is the top layer of the cake now: of a troubled transition? or will it just become another layer on top of corruption and organized crime, personal morality, constant disenfranchisement, lack of trust/interest in "bigger picture", Ottoman, Communist Rule

Fears
- that corruption will prevent country from progressing and people from achieving a better lifestyle
- Romani children
- economic disparity
- primary institutions are irrelevant to everyday life (those that build a common good)- church, government, community groups, law enforcement
- national community that has been oppressed does not turn to drugs/addictions
- adjust to the Euro smoothly
- premonition for our country- too many parallels


Hopes
- design includes more safety features in architecture and ergonomics
- for serge in humanities in education and not just business/marketing
- could the high standards of the EU be the "carrot" that helps Bulgaria survive, while allowing some nationalism to continue?
- that Bulgarians preserve their traditions and cultures
- corruption will go away with joining the EU
- that Bulgaria finds its voice as Bulgaria (no corruption, no inflation, government involvement) and Bulgaria keeps its voice in the EU


Predictions
- much more foreign investment
- a new retirement location
- the EU may supply a check and balance
- generation gap of children missing will led to a gap in culture being passed on
- they will be fine because they joined the EU

Monday, July 14, 2008

Carol Mohrlock--Monday, July 14




WOW!

Where do I begin! Dr. Didar Erdine was our presenter today at AUBG. Talk about a dynamic speaker and a teacher! This woman is one knowledgeable economist who knows how to convey the very important information about economics and economics in Bulgaria. I personally loved every minute of the economics lecture.

Here are some statements which I share by way of the heading:

ECONOMICS of BULGARIA
Eastern communist regime considered Bulgaria as a satellite of the USSR.
Communism “fixed” prices, products and “everything” during this regime.
Owning of private property was very little during communism. Land was owned by state.
Nothing under communism was determined by supply and demand.
Over the time period of 1945 – 1989 Bulgaria had a dictatorial government.
Many problems existed related to economic inefficiency b/c compensation was limited.
In the communist regime there was no unemployment & no differentiation of wages.
Collapsing of communism brought about market reforms within Bulgaria.
Some BG politicians were involved with corruption when market reforms began.


Over night some people became millionaires by selling off items of the Bulgarian state.
For such people the term Nomen Klatura is used.


Banks were also involved in the mismanagement of funds. Corruption sprung up.
Unrest stirred among the public who were becoming increasingly aware of corruption.
Losses were handled by BG printing more lev to finance the losses.
Growing tensions were seen when BG tried to get into the export market (western EU).
Asking BG to control $ supply by being pegged to the euro has helped the economy.
Revenues (taxes) & expenditures (supporting state enterprises) are the two sides of gov.
I M F has been a most important system since 1997 for the BG macroeconomic structure.
A country, like BG must rely on foreign investments to open its economy and improve.


While the economic future of Bulgaria is uncertain, the country has leveled the playing field. It has made it possible for all people to come and purchase enterprises. This small country, located at the crossroads of the east and west realizes it needs capital from the foreign market.


Since 1998 Bulgaria has received funds as a perspective member of the EU. In order to become a member Bulgaria must use the EU money to improve its infrastructures. Currently the EU funds (which are a grant) are frozen due do some corruption. The EU is closely monitoring the funds.


Currently one of Bulgaria’s biggest problems is that of inflation. For the past few years inflation has been at 15 %. In order to use the euro, an EU member country can not have over 4-5% inflation. Given the global trends it will take several years for this nation to work through the current challenge of inflation.


Dr. Erdine projects that 2012 will be the year that Bulgaria begins using the euro. Only time will tell if this will happen. In the mean time, it looks as if the Rose of the Balkans is on the right economic road for progress.


While our morning was filled with a stimulating class on economics, our afternoon was filled with learning how to weave. Fulbright-Hayes participant Anne Dale Blair showed us all how to weave a Bulgarian flag. The art session was great fun as we followed her instructions and chatted about our fabulous Fulbright experience in Bulgaria.


Carol Mohrlock
July 14, 2008