Tuesday, July 22

Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Submitted by Kristen Holtschlag
"Now You See Me, Now You Don't!" – A.W.D.B.

Our last day in Sofia included all of our “lasts". Our last lecture, delivered by Pamela under the awning in our hotel's restaurant during a rainstorm, explored the experiences of women in Bulgaria throughout modern history. This lecture stimulated a lively discussion in the group in which comparisons and distinctions were made between these experiences and those in the United States and Vietnam. We took our last field trip to the Animus Foundation, an NGO promoting women's rights in Sofia, which we walked to in the aftermath of the storm. At this beautiful location, we heard a power point about this organization and had an extensive discussion of the issues surrounding women in contemporary Bulgarian culture. Following the lecture, we toured the organization's premises, which had made a concerted effort to create an atmosphere that was both therapeutic and familiar, achieved through the use of muted colors, comfy furniture, and powerful artwork adorning the walls.
After the trip to the Animus Foundation, we had our last opportunity to explore Sofia. One faction of the group investigated the Women's Market in the center of town. While Karen and Andrea discovered the best prices on produce and t-shirts, Margaret tapped into the underground pick-pocketing ring (thanks to the quick action of Ann Marie and Pat, no personal items were harmed in the process). Still others sought out more icons. A few others went their individual ways, walking the city or reflecting quietly in the hotel restaurant.
Following our individual explorations, we convened for our last dinner. Next door to the hotel, a lovely restaurant called Manastirska Magernica served traditional Bulgarian fare in a uniquely Bulgarian setting. There, we exchanged words of appreciation for one another and had many pictures and many toasts. Fantastic food and fantastic company rounded out our last day in Bulgaria.
From Bulgaria, all took separate paths. Kristen and Margaret went to Paris, Larry, Carol, Le, and Ann Marie to the Greek Islands, Karen to London, Kristin to Germany, and Stephanie went to see her grandkids in Pennsylvania.

Thus concludes the last blog entry. Довиждане!

Anne W. Dale Blair--Monday, July 21

Happy Birthday, Pat Goodman!



July 21,2008 Day 32 Sophia (Pat’s Birthday)


7:30 – 9:00 Breakfast in the hotel Cafeteria
9:20 in lobby to get on Bus
9:40 – 10:30 Boyana Church
11:00-2:00 National Historical Museum
3:00 – free time!!! (shopping, internet cafés, galleries, napping, etc.)

We met in the hotel lobby to take the bus to Boyana Church. According to the Lonely Planet: Bulgaria; “The tiny, 13th century Boyana Church, is on Unesco’s World Heritage list and is Bulgaria’s most cherished and revered historic monument. The 90 Murals, which date from 1259, are rare survivors from that period, and are among the very finest examples of Bulgarian medieval artwork. This includes the oldest know portrait of St. John of Rila along with representations of King Konstantin Asen and Queen Irina. Decades of painstaking restoration were finally completed in 2006, so visitors can not enjoy the church in all its glory.”

We entered the church in groups of 8 and “could only stay 10 Minutes”. We entered a plain 18x18 church with some remnants of murals on the wall, which was well lit with spot lights and our tour leader told us about it being built in 1845 and then she opened the door to another section and we all went “WOW” right out loud. It was like opening a jewel box. The colors in the next older section was vibrant and well lit so it was such a huge difference. We climbed into the smaller section built in 1259. The frescos were overlaid over older 10th century mural which were in the original chapel- probably built for an personal chapel. The guide pointed out the realistic details and all the people, saints and other important details on the murals. The church included several scenes from St. Nicholas and his life. He is the patron saint of the church.

Next, we rode to the National Museum of History which is housed in the old communist presidential palace. We were met by a guide, Agnes, who led us on a whirlwind tour of two marbled floors of the impressive museum. We had the history of Bulgaria in artifacts with an impressive about of gold amulets, lids, wine vessels, jewelry, and an incredible 9 vessel royal ritual set – including stag headed drinking vessels, and a wide serving tray embossed with 100s of heads of African Americans which the belief was of bringing good luck to the drinkers.

Traditional clothing outfits and costumes were upstairs with a coin room, an example of a classroom (with a punishment box under the teacher’s desk), a room with weaving examples and lastly a room from a house with the way people lived in the 1900’s .

To summarize the visit to the Museum I surveyed everyone with the question: What artifact did you find the most interesting?

The helmet and “chain mail” of the very early Thracian king- Larry

The pre-currency dolphin coins – Kristen

The “mother Goddess” figures – Pamela

The silver vase that showed how the Thracians used the drinking vessels and the female clay figure that was on one side and the other side was a male figure- Anne Dale Blair

The piece of the One True Cross – incased in silver relief double cross, discovered by Helena, wife of Constantine – Margaret

The cube under the teachers desk – Pat

The miniature gold horse carving placed under magnifying glass – Andrea

Seeing the possible “True” cross. – Heather

The hand-carved decorative ceiling in the presentation room – Julie

The wall of Italian mosaics with birds, animals, and historic figures.- Ann Marie

I really loved the peasant girl’s dress which was on display. I liked it because it is very representative of the 18-19th “farm” dress for a Bulgarian peasant girl. – Carol

Walking into the room where the bright gold Royal Wine Drinking Ritual set was displayed caught my attention and I recognized how old and amazing the artifacts in the museum are. – Karen

Loved the small Roman sculptures and the children’s toys from Roman times – Kristin

Shopping at the museum’s gift shop was fun! Not haggling with prices and high quality goods. Le

The detail in the artifacts from 5th millennium BC and the bath scrubbers. – Stephanie.